Test airflow first.
We measure what the vent is doing before we touch it, so there's a number to compare against afterwards.
If your clothes need two cycles to dry, the vent is usually why. We clear the full duct run, check how it was installed, and tell you what we find. Homes, condos and townhouses across San Francisco and the Bay Area.

A dryer works by pushing hot, wet air out of the house. When lint narrows the duct, that air has nowhere to go, so the moisture stays in the drum and the clothes come out damp.
Most people respond by running another cycle. That doubles the running cost, and it puts the dryer under exactly the load it was never designed for: more heat, less airflow, for twice as long.
The lint trap only catches part of what comes off your clothes. The rest goes into the duct, and it builds up somewhere you can't see or reach.
Clothes still damp after a full cycle, or needing a second one. The laundry room gets noticeably hot while the dryer runs, the outside vent flap doesn't open, or barely moves, when the dryer is on, a burning or hot-lint smell during a cycle, lint appearing around the back of the dryer or on the floor behind it, the dryer shutting itself off mid-cycle. More than a year since it was last done.
The dryer shutting off on its own is the one to act on quickly. Dryers are built to cut out when they overheat, and a blocked vent is the usual reason it happens.
Not just the six feet behind the dryer. Blockages are usually further along, at a bend or the outside vent.
Before and after, with a meter. It's the only way either of us knows whether the clean actually worked.
Foil duct, a screened cover, screws through the duct wall. These are common, and they undo a clean within months.
If your vent doesn't need doing yet, we'll tell you that and let you know when to book instead.

Worth knowing, because it isn't widely understood.
A gas dryer burns fuel, so its exhaust contains carbon monoxide along with the hot air and lint. As long as the duct is sealed and clear, all of that goes outside. If the duct is blocked, disconnected, or leaking at a joint, some of it can end up in the house instead.
This is why the duct behind a gas dryer matters more than people assume, and why a CO alarm near the laundry area is worth having whether or not you ever call us.
One thing to know before you book: we don't disconnect gas lines. If your dryer can't be reached without that, you'll need a plumber or appliance technician to handle that part first.
A vacuum down the duct is the easy part. Most vents that clog again quickly do so because of how they were built, not because nobody cleaned them.
So nobody wastes a phone call.

Apartment buildings and shared or stacked laundry rooms

Single-family homes, townhouses and condos with their own dryer

Commercial and laundromat equipment

Clearing the full duct run from the dryer to the outside termination

Dryer repairs (that’s an appliance technician)

Airflow testing before and after

Gas line disconnection

Cleaning the lint trap housing and the area behind the dryer where we can reach it

Duct replacement or rerouting inside walls, which we refer out

Replacing the foil hose between the dryer and the wall

Roof terminations, because we don’t carry ladders

Reconnecting and checking the duct is properly sealed

HVAC and air duct cleaning

Telling you what we found and what needs attention

Dryer fires are real, and they're usually preventable.
NFPA data on US home fires involving clothes dryers puts failure to clean as the leading contributing factor, at roughly a third of them. The material that ignites first is most often the lint itself. That's a maintenance problem rather than a fault with your dryer, which is the useful part: it means an annual clean genuinely addresses the main cause.
What we won't do is quote you a frightening number and leave it there. If your vent is short, straight and in good shape, we'll tell you it's fine and when to book again.

We measure what the vent is doing before we touch it, so there's a number to compare against afterwards.
The dryer is moved so we can get at the duct properly. We don't disconnect gas lines, so if yours needs that, you'll need a plumber or appliance technician first.
A rotary brush is fed through the duct while a vacuum captures what comes loose, so the lint ends up in the machine rather than on your floor.
The exterior vent and damper are cleaned from outside, because that's where a lot of blockages actually sit.
Everything goes back, joints are sealed properly, and we measure airflow again. Then we tell you what we found, including anything about the installation you should know, whether or not it's work we do.

From $XXX

From $XXX
Minimum service fee in San Francisco: $[XXX]. Booked alongside a carpet or upholstery clean, it's cheaper than a separate visit, so tell us when you book.
We clean dryer vents in homes throughout San Francisco and the surrounding Bay Area. Don't see your neighborhood? Call us.
Most jobs run 45 to 90 minutes, depending on how long the duct is and how much is in it. Heavily blocked or hard-to-reach vents take longer, and we'll tell you if that's likely when you book.
Both, and the inspection is the part that tells you something. We measure airflow before we start, check the duct material and how it's routed, look at the outside termination, and tell you what we find. If the vent turns out not to need cleaning yet, we'll say so rather than clean it anyway.
It depends on the duct run. Tell us where the dryer sits and roughly how far it is to the nearest outside wall, and we can usually give you a price over the phone. Estimates are free.
No. We handle single-family homes, townhouses and condos with their own dryer. Shared and stacked laundry rooms in apartment buildings usually have shared ducting, which needs a contractor set up for that work.
It's common in older San Francisco homes and it isn't automatically a problem, but it does mean a longer duct with more bends, which collects lint faster. The California Mechanical Code limits a domestic dryer duct to 14 feet including two 90-degree elbows, with 2 feet deducted for each elbow after that. A lot of homes are over. If yours is, we'll tell you what your options are.
No, that's an appliance technician. What we can tell you is whether the vent is clear, which rules out the most common cause. If airflow tests fine after cleaning and clothes still aren't drying, the problem is the machine.
We can replace the foil hose between the dryer and the wall. Anything inside the walls, or rerouting the run, we refer out to a contractor. We'll always tell you if the duct material or routing is the reason it keeps clogging, and what it would take to put right.
Once a year suits most households, sooner if you have a long duct run, a large family, or you dry a lot of towels and bedding. The dryer usually tells you before the calendar does. When a normal load stops drying in one cycle, that's the signal.